Contemporary Console Table | Popular Woodworking Magazine
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This slim table maximizes the minimum space.
MMy family recently left our large farm for a compact ranch. We also left our farm-sized things and now we need new furniture. This console, less than 4 ‘wide and just over 1’ deep, fits perfectly below a wall-mounted TV to maximize space on the floor and the removable shelf offers precious space.
Four 47 “long pieces form the top and the shelf. I bought two 1x8s, which is just enough but leaves little room to cut the checks and cracks – consider purchasing a longer piece (but 8 ‘is maximum for many vehicles.) You will also need two 6 ′ 1 × 6 boards for the side, front and rear aprons, as well as two 2×6 6 ′ long aprons.
To make the legs, cut a 2 × 6 to two lengths of 311/4“On the miter saw. Set a combination square to 11/2“And mark a line on the long side. Align the jig saw blade (or circular saw blade) to the mark, then align and lock a straight edge with the edge of the saw shoe. Rip four legs.
When the legs are cut to the width, group them together to decide and mark your final leg orientation.
Next, cut two long aprons from the 1 × 6 boards. Place a 44 ″ stop on the miter saw and cut both pieces to size. Cut the remaining 2 × 6 for long stretchers to the same length.
Reset stop to 111/2“And cut two short aprons from the remaining 1 × 6. Cut a 2 × 6 piece of the same length for the short stretchers.
To determine the position of the pocket hole, measure and mark the center and 3/4“On both edges inside the faces of the apron. Drill three pocket holes on each end.
Now drill a line of pocket holes along the top inner edge of each apron: two on the short aprons, three on the long aprons. Ream the holes (slightly moving the tip up and down in the long ones, laterally in the short ones) to allow the seasonal movement of the upper part.
Tear the stretchers to 11/4“.
Finish sanding everything with # 180 grit. It’s easier to do now than after assembly.
Mount aprons and chamfers
Using a combination square set to 1/4“, Mark a line, parallel to three edges, on both sides of each of the four legs for chamfers (small chamfers). Leave the internal square edges.
The aprons are inserted 1/4“On the legs, aligned with the chamfers. The insert presents a challenge in keeping the aprons in the correct position for assembly, but here is a simple solution.
Start by assembling the final pieces. Tighten one leg in your workmate, leaving it far enough above the bench to attach the F-shaped clamps to your pieces.
Find a 1/4“Scrap often and cut two lengths for” keys. “Put a scrap on each side of the apron and attach it to the face of the leg.
Insert the screws into the holes in the pockets to secure it to the leg, then screw the second leg to that assembly. Do the same on the other end.
Take your long aprons (and a helper – this part gets a little tricky with just two hands) and attach them to the final assemblies.
Now smooth the legs (you can do this before assembly, but it makes it more difficult to lock them in place). Use a block plan to smooth your 1/4“Pencil marks. You could, like me, end up working on the floor for some of these corners, before waving. The block plane will not allow a full 1/4“Blunt near the aprons, then chisel or sand to remove what the plane cannot reach.
Contemporary cutting list for console
No. Material Dimensions (inches) Material
t w l
❏ 4 Top and shelf 3/4 x 7 1/4 x 47 Pine
❏ 2 long aprons 3/4 x 5 1/2 x 44 Pine
❏ 2 short aprons 3/4 x 5 1/2 x 11 1/2 Pine tree
❏ 4 legs 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 31 1/4 Pine tree
❏ 2 Long stretchers 1 1/4 x 2 x 44 pins
❏ 2 Short stretchers 1 1/4 x 2 x 11 1/2 Pine tree
❏2Battens 1 x 1 x 11 Pine
Stretchers and tops
Determine the positioning of the stretcher (I went with 10 ″ from the bottom) and cut a piece of scrap to this extent. Use this to arrange the stretcher positions on all four legs.
I fixed the stretchers using a pocket hole on the bottom and inside edge of each end. Remember to set the mask and the tip of the pocket hole for the correct thickness. Drill the holes, align the stretchers to the marks and secure them using the appropriate screws (2 ″ for the internal face, 21/2“For the fund).
Choose the most beautiful 1 × 8 for the top and place it longitudinally on the base. Wash one end on one face of the leg, then mark the other end. This is the length of the top and the shelf. End this measurement and cut the two upper pieces. Fasten them to the apron through the holes in the pockets you previously made.
Now cut the two shelves to size, rinse the ends and screw three scrap strips on the bottom side – one on each end, one in the center (also draw these holes from one side to the other). Use a combo square to arrange the square notches at the corners, then cut them with a puzzle. The shelf rests firmly on the stretchers and is removable.
I chose a gel stain (it stains less on the pine) and I covered it with washable polyurethane. The paint may look better but, after years of painting barns and fences, I really wanted to see the grain.
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