Custom Push Pads Popular Woodworking Tips

Custom Push Pads Popular Woodworking Tips.

Closed for safety. The closed handle of this shop-made push pad design is safer than the typical commercial version with D-handle: your hand cannot get caught in this handle.

This handle design is an improvement in safety compared to commercial versions.

Let’s face it: many of us too often see security as … well, just plain boring.

 

We always seem eager to use that bit of free time to go to the store and work on the next urgent project for our spouse, children or grandchildren, and security takes second place.

But you can’t do carpentry from a hospital bed; every minimum safety exercised allows you to maximize your precious free time for woodworking.

Push pads are a common safety aid. There are good push pads and there are better push pads.

Commercial push pads (coupons), which are readily available and at an inexpensive price, are often used when performing the front joint on the jointer. The angled handle helps the operator keep the butt against the fence as the butt is advanced through the cutting knives. The “D” loop handle is very similar to a suitcase handle, with grooves for the fingers that provide a comfortable and firm grip on the push pad.

But some security experts say that no mask should have a handle that encloses your fingers. The reasoning is that in the event of an accident of some kind (kickback, trapped blade, a loose knot, etc.), the hand may become trapped and cause a serious injury. (If you use these commercial push pads, I recommend that you hold them with your cupped hand, rather than putting your fingers around and through the handle – but at best it’s an unnatural grip, and the ergonomics of the thing begs you to use it in a far from safe way.)

With an attentive operator, the chances of such an accident could be remote, but why risk even a small risk of injury if a simple and cheap alternative is available?

The push pad shown here (better) is a shop project that you can make in a few hours from waste; it’s fun and will improve your safety practices. This design is an improvement over popular commercial push button panels. I call it “safe pad”.

It has a stationary flute on both sides of the handle, which offers a comfortable and secure grip without the possibility of trapping the hand in the event of a machining accident.

My dimensions for a 20 ° inclined handle are indicated in the following text, but adjust the dimensions to best suit your particular situation, if necessary.

And of course keep safety in mind while you’re making them. Use the levers and feather pens needed to work with these small parts and keep your fingers away from the rotating blades.

Start by cutting a 3/4“X 23/4“X 57/8“Manage the white from a piece of scrap wood of your choice.

The 3/4“X 3 x 57/8“The base can be made of wood or plywood – the length must match the length of the handle; if you adjust one, adjust the other.

Now follow the steps below to create the buttons shown above, as well as two variations.

1. Get your rhythm. Configure the router table with a grooved tip and set the 11⁄8 ″ fence from the inside edge of the tip.

Set the cutting depth to 3⁄16 ″.

2. Set the stops. Set the stop blocks on the fence to record the 1 “cut from each end. Then place the top edge of the handle against the fence and the rear end on the router table against the entry stop. Slowly lower the handle on the rotating tip. until the piece is flat on the table, then move forward to cut the stationary flute. Flip the end of the handle to the end, then lower the handle to cut the second face.

3. Add curves. Draw a 1 “radius curve on both upper ends, then cut near the lines with a miter saw or hand saw. Sand on the lines with a belt sander to smooth the curves.

4. Add comfort. Make your grip on the handle more comfortable by cutting a 3⁄16 ″ turn on the ends and on the top of both sides on the router table.

5. 20 ° groove. Install a nut stack on the table saw to cut the groove in the base that holds the handle (and perform a few test cuts to make sure it fits perfectly). Tilt the stack to 20 ° and set the height to 9⁄16 ″ on the deep side of the cut.

6 a). In position. Set the saw cutting guide to position the cut at 13⁄8 ″.

6 (b). The cut completed

7. Route the edges. Cut a 3⁄16 ″ round on the top edges. Then spread the glue in the groove and on the bottom of the handle; block the unit to dry.

8. Add some grip. Using a spray adhesive (I like 3M’s 77 multipurpose adhesive), apply an oversized piece of # 100 or # 120 grit heavy duty sandpaper or rubber (from an inner tube or a tool drawer liner). Use a “J” roller to ensure a solid bond between the bottom of the pad and the friction material with a safety blade cut the protrusion of the friction material.

9. Variations. The versions of the Safe “T” Push Pad can be made to adapt to other situations and operations. If you want a vertical handle, only a couple of tweaks are needed. Shorten the handle width to 25⁄8 ″ and cut a 3⁄8 ″ deep centered groove in the base at 90 °.

10. Approved. A heel on the back of a button panel is often useful. Assemble as above, then glue a piece of hard wood 3⁄8 ″ x 3⁄4 ″ x as long as the base is wide). Do not use metal fasteners: it may come into contact with a saw blade or a jointer blade. Then glue on sandpaper or rubber.


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