Drill Press Table – Home Decor Online Tips

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It’s accurate, easy to use, and built to last.

T.here are all kinds of drill tables and fences, from a simple 2 × 4 locked to the machine’s cast iron table to those with gadgets and gizmos galore. The latter is not my style, so when it came time to replace my drill press table the list of requirements was short:

Precision. The table must be flat and remain flat and the fence must be square to the table.

Easy to use. My previous table had a fence attached to the table itself, so each fence adjustment required loosening and tightening the F-type clamps on the uneven bottom of the cast iron table.

Longevity. Even though I tried not to, I eventually got my old table dirty by drilling it too many times.

Workholding. There are times when I need to curb my work but the normal clamps don’t reach.

With these issues in mind, I developed the pillar drill table seen here.

Choose your materials

I decided to use MDF for the table because it is flat and stable. Plywood is another option as long as it is flat (which is typically only the case in the higher grades). I discarded a melamine coated particle board because the surface is too slippery. The fence is made from a clear section of a 2 × 4 that I joined straight and square. A piece of plywood is screwed to the bottom of the fence. The plywood itself is fixed to the MDF table. The T-track and T-bolts are used for adjusting the fence and fixing it to the table. An additional piece of T-track is placed closer to the front of the table for locking work should the need arise.

Set up

My table measures 18 “x 28”, a generous size for most of the work. If you’re having a hard time finding space in your store, you might want to reduce it. I should also note that my drill press has an 18 “swing. If your drill press is smaller, you will need to shorten the run of the fence.

Under the surface of the table is a second 16 ″ x 23 ″ piece of MDF, which I will call under-table. The sub-table is screwed in afterwards, but its main purpose is to provide more thickness to the table to screw the T-track tightly. Set the sub-table aside for now.

Take the plunge. I used a plunge cutter with a fence to cut the 3⁄4 “wide by 1⁄2” deep grooves for the T-track. I also attached a piece of stock to the table to act as a stop for cutting the router.

The first on the table was the passage of the grooves for the T-track. My T-track is 34wide x 12thick. When making these grooves, make them a hair deeper than the thickness of the T-track. I routed the two grooves for the fence about 414“From each side and made them 534”Long, measured from the rear edge. To cut the file grooving I used a plunge cutter with a fence attached.

The groove for the T-track fixing piece is milled at an angle of approximately 45 °. Its location is somewhat arbitrary, but you can use the drawing to see where I placed mine. Again, this piece is about 534“Long, but stretch the groove slightly so that you can insert a T-bolt into the track.

Square is a must. The fence and table must be square, so check them carefully.

Next, I made a 434“- Hole diameter using a fly cutter. It is centered from side to side on the table and 734from the rear edge. In this hole I insert an insert of the same size that can be easily replaced as needed – which remedies the problem of ruining the table by repeatedly drilling it. To make the insert I simply drew the circle with a compass and carefully cut out the circle on the band saw. A few minutes of sanding the outer edge and the fit was good.

Let it fly. The large hole in the table is made with a fly cutter. Keep your hands well away from the rotary cutter and be careful when using this tool.

Before assembling all the parts of the table I rounded the front corners, cutting a 2 ″ radius using the band saw.

Round off your insert. To make the round insert for the table, simply draw the circle with a compass, then carefully cut it out on the bandsaw.

To complete the table, screw the sub-table to the table from below. Keep the screw positions away from the center area and grooves of the T-rail. Then screw the T-track into place and insert the round insert into the table. At this point, you can go ahead and bolt the table assembly to the cast iron table of the drill press.

Create the fence

Before starting, make sure the fence material is perfectly flat and square all the way around. As mentioned earlier, I used a clear 2 × 4 piece that I milled flat and square using a splicer and plane. Next, cut a piece of plywood 312”About as wide and as long as the fence. Designate which will be the face of the fence and the back. On the lower back edge, cut a groove 34as wide and deep as plywood is thick. Try to get everything nice and square, both the edge of the plywood and the batting. Now, on the bottom front face, cut a small groove 18 deep and 38wide. Before screwing the plywood into the groove on the fence, cut out the top corners of the ends of the fence. It is easier to use and looks good.

The solution is inside. You can always line up the drill press fence by making a pass on your jointer after making sure the jointer fence is square.

Once the fence is screwed together, place it on the drill table and carefully compare the face of the fence with the table to determine if it’s really square. If it’s out even slightly, here’s the solution: go to your jointer (make sure the jointer fence is perfectly perpendicular to the table) and, with the plywood base of the fence against the jointer fence, make a light jointer pass across the face of the fence. facade of the drill fence. This should correct any irregularities and make them more true. Go back to the pillar drill table and double-check. If square, it’s done.

Next, set the fence above the T-track so that it is centered from side to side. Mark the centers of the track slots on the plywood base of the fence. Then drill holes for the T-bolts through the plywood in locations away from the fence that allow the knobs to turn freely.

There are some additional features on this enclosure. That shallow joke you made at the bottom front will enable a 14“-thick sacrificial board to slide in and still leave room for the wood shavings so the butt stays tight against the fence. Additionally, you can turn the fence so that the edge of the plywood faces the front. This low fence is perfect for drilling small holes near the edge of a board. This low guide also prevents the drill chuck from hitting the guide before the bit can be lowered sufficiently in the job.

Template: Download the free SketchUp model for this article.

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