Fast-and-Easy Drawer Boxes – Home Decor Online Tips

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A single router table, with two machines, does the trick.

Making drawers it can chew a lot of time, unless you have an efficient system. I have worked in several cabinet shops where the drawers are made quickly. I have adopted their methods for my home shop, where I often make cabinets that require a lot of drawers. But even if you don’t need to work fast, this system works quite well.

As the drawers go, this design is pretty simple. It is a classic four-piece chest of drawers, made in 1/2 Baltic birch. It is intended for utility furniture, not for display items. The box is glued, glued and nailed together – strong enough joinery for a drawer that slides on rails. After the box is built, it receives an applied front, which is usually hardwood or edged plywood.

1. I built a dedicated router table to quickly build many drawers. It has two routers: the left machine has a 1/4 “straight bit and the right machine has a 1/2” straight bit. Both bits attach at 1/4 “.

Let’s start with a drawer making station I built that saves a lot of installation time (Photo 1).

2. To start creating a drawer, place a box on the right fence. The box has 1/2 “thick sides and the tip is 1/2” from the fence, so the front side of the box is even with the tip.

3. Make the grooves on one end of both sides of the drawer. The stops will receive the drawer front. After routing, remove the box and set it aside.

4. Route the dados through the opposite ends of the drawer sides. The dice will receive the drawer back.

5. Join the two sides of the drawer and mark the sides that will be grooved to accommodate the bottom of the drawer.

6. Make the grooves along the inside faces of both sides of the drawer using the second cutter in the table. This bit is placed 3/8 “away from the fence.

7. When you are done, you will have a pair of matching side rails. That’s it for routing; now move on to calculating the length of the front and back.

8. Hold the two sides of the drawer against each other. Place a ruler on the two grooves to directly calculate the length of the front and back pieces. For example, the ruler reads 16-3 / 16 “on the right, the size of the finished drawer; on the left, the ruler reads 15-11 / 16”, the length for cutting the front and back pieces. Tear off the fronts of the same width as the hips; tear the back 5/8 ″ narrower than the sides.

9. Temporarily mount the drawer. Make the bottom 1/4 “plywood. Tear it 1/32” narrower than the length of the front and back pieces. Crosscut 1 “extra-long. Slide the bottom and mark its length so that it is flush with the back.

10. Using a different router, round off the top edges of the drawer parts using a 1/4 “round bit. Flip each piece over and rout both sides.

11. Assemble the drawer using glue and 1 inch long 18 gauge pegs. Place the drawer parts upside down to align the top edges. Start with the back corners.

12. Glue and nail the front. Then slide the bottom almost all the way and flip the drawer over.

13. Apply a drop of glue to the end of the drawer bottom, then push the bottom into the front groove. Turn the drawer over.

14. To make sure the drawer is square, nest it inside two strips screwed to a large piece of plywood. Secure the bottom using 1/4 ″, 3/4 ″ long crown staples.

15. Add glue blocks around the bottom. They are 3/8 “square and 2” long. Just rub them into place; they don’t need to be nailed. These locks hold the drawer square and prevent the bottom from rattling if it comes loose in the grooves.

Add slides and mount the drawer in the cabinet. Secure the solid wood front with double-sided tape, then open the drawer and fix the front with the screws from the inside.

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