Green Wall Shelf | Popular Woodworking Magazine

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Add a pop of color to your hallway.

Our entrance it’s usually a messy mess: coats on the floor, keys scattered here and there and hats – well, I can never find them. I built this wall shelf to provide a place for everything and to display some decorative items as well. When I finished, my wife thought it would be useful in the kitchen as well. Now I’m doing a second!

Most of the wall shelf is constructed of 3/4 “pine, which you can buy at a home center. Just make sure it is flat and straight. I used old wood from a house I was renovating. The planks were colored mismatched and full of nail holes and other flaws, so I painted the wall shelf to join the parts together. I used green because this color also symbolizes good management of our resources, such as recycling this lumber.

The carpentry is quite simple. Most of the parts are just stuck together and nailed together. Cookies reinforce these joints and align the parts, making assembly easier.

Green shelf cut list

Overall dimensions: 26 “H x 42” W x 6-1 / 2 “D

Part

First name

Qty.

Material

Thickness x W x L

A

Side

2

Pine regenerated

3/4 “x 5-1 / 2” x 25-1 / 4 “

B.

Lower shelf

1

Pine regenerated

3/4 “x 5-1 / 2” x 39 “

C.

Central shelf

1

Pine regenerated

3/4 “x 5-1 / 8” x 39 “

D.

Divider

3

Pine regenerated

3/4 “x 5-1 / 8” x 3-1 / 2 “

IS

Superior

1

Pine regenerated

3/4 “X 6-1 / 2” x 42 “

F.

Peg card

1

Pine regenerated

3/4 “x 3-3 / 4” x 39 “

G.

Wall cleat

1

Pine regenerated

3/4 “x 2” x 39 “

H.

Rear table

14

Edge of pine beads

5/16 “x 3-1 / 16” x 20-1 / 4 “

J

Drawer front

4

Pine regenerated

1/2 “x 3-7 / 16” x 9-1 / 8 “

K

Side of the drawer

8

Pine regenerated

1/2 “x 3-7 / 16” x 4-7 / 8 “

L

Rear drawer

4

Pine regenerated

3/8 “x 3-1 / 16” x 8-5 / 8 “

M.

Drawer bottom

4

Plywood

1/4 “x 4-7 / 8” x 8-5 / 8 “

No.

Drawer knob

4

P.

Peg

5

Fig. A) Exploded view

Fig. B) Back

Fig. C) Lower shelf

Fig. D) Central shelf

Fig. E) Side

Create the parts

1. Cut the biscuit joints in the drawer dividers.

1. Start by tearing the sides (A) and the bottom shelf (B) to the same width. Also, tear off the middle shelf (C) and dividers (D) to the same width. Cut the top (E), the peg panel (F) and the wall cleat (G) to width. Cut all these pieces to size. Note that the shelves, peg panel and cleat are the same length.

2. Cut the coupling joints in the shelves.

2. Arrange the distance of the drawer dividers on the middle and bottom shelves (Fig. A). Cut the biscuit joints in the drawer dividers (Photo 1) and shelves (Photo 2).

3. Cut a plate groove in the center shelf using a center box drill.

3. Make a groove in the plate in the center shelf (Photo 3 and Fig. D). Nut or route a stop in the rear edge of the lower shelf to receive the rear axles (Fig. C).

4. Temporarily fasten the two shelves and drawer dividers together. Place this assembly on one side, in the correct position (Fig. E), and draw lines around the ends of the shelves. Remove and unlock the group. Discard the marked side to the unmarked side and transfer the layout lines. Cut the cookie joints on the sides and ends of both shelves.

5. Cut and smooth the arches in the lower ends of the sides (Fig. E). Rout a stop on the sides for the rear axles. Drill holes for the pegs (P) in the peg panel.

Assembly

4. Attach the bottom shelf to the peg panel.

6. Glue and nail the bottom shelf to the peg panel (Photo 4). Make sure the ends are flush. Add drawer dividers and center shelf (Photo 5). Make sure the fronts of these pieces are flush.

5. Attach this assembly to the drawer dividers and center shelf, using cookies and nails.

7. Add sides (Photo 6). It also blocks these joints.

6. Secure the sides. They are joined to the shelves also with cookies.

8. Once the glue is dry, place this assembly upside down on top. Mark the sides at the top, then cut the cookie slots at the top and ends of the sides. Glue the top to the assembly (Photo 7).

7. Add the top. Using a nail gun makes assembly quick.

9. Glue the wall cleat to the underside of the top. Then add the back tabs (Photo 8 and H). I purchased this material, ready to use, at a home center, but you could make your own. When installing these pieces, leave a space of at least 1/16 ″ between each tab and the bottom of each groove. This space is needed to allow these pieces to expand when the humidity is high. Each piece won’t move much, but as a whole, the width of all rear axles could increase by up to 1/2 ″.

8. Attach the back boards, which are thin pieces of tongue and groove panels.

Build the drawers

10. Stock rip for drawer fronts (J) and sides (K). Tear off the butt for the backs (L), which are 3/8 ″ narrower. Cut the fronts to size, approximately 1/16 “less than the actual drawer openings. Cut the backs 1/2” shorter than the fronts.

11. Cut the grooves on the drawer fronts and sides for the drawer bottoms (M, Fig. A). Grooves cut in the fronts and sides of the drawers. Drill the holes for the knobs (N) in the drawer fronts.

9. Nail the drawers. The sides are hinged in the front and back.

12. Temporarily lock the drawers together and cut the bottoms to fit. Glue and nail the drawers together (Photo 9). As you assemble each drawer, insert the bottom to keep the drawer square.

13. Glue knobs [Purchase Here] in drawers and pegs [Purchase Here] in the peg panel.

10. Fill the nail holes and you are ready to paint!

14. Fill the nail holes with putty (Photo 10) and you are ready to paint.

Finish

11. Soften all edges and corners with an electric sander and hand sanding.

15. Start by softening each edge, as if it has been handled for years (Photo 11). Then roughen the exposed surfaces a little with a classic forgery tool: a bunch of keys and other hardware attached to a chain (Photo 12).

12. Imitate cuts and dents by hitting wood with a set of keys on a chain.

16. To simulate years of grain, apply an acrylic texturizing compound (Photo 13 and Sources, below). You can leave it thick or smooth it with the sponge.

13. Apply a sponge to a texturing compound to create a slightly textured surface.

17. Apply your favorite paint (Photo 14).

14. Paint over the texturing compound after the compound has dried.

18. Turn off the paint color and add some dirt by applying a nail polish (Photo 15 and Sources). Use your brush to work the icing until your project looks natural and loved.

15. Add a brown icing to mimic wear and handling.

Installation

19. The wall shelf must be flush with the wall and fixed to the uprights. There are many ways to hang it. I used the keyhole slots cut into the back of the wall cleat and hung the cabinet from long pan-head screws inserted into the pins. It’s a fussy job, though. It would be easier to insert the screws directly through the face of the wall cleat and into the studs

SOURCES

• Folk Art Antiquing Medium (enamel), # 819, Apple Butter Brown, 2 oz.

• Winsor & Newton Structure Gel (texturizing compound), # 02006-2105, 250 ml

• Wooden knob, # AMBP812WD

Medium sized pegs


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