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It will not solve addiction to a tool, but will facilitate the search for tools.
Yyou’ve undoubtedly seen the photos of the H.O. Studley tool cupboard: the Sistine Chapel of tool cupboards. And as far as I’m concerned, Studley has got it right. Yes, his toolbox is a work of art and everything else, but above all, hangs on the wall.
I apologize to all the people who love the chests of the floor, I prefer to store the tools hanging on the wall if I don’t have to travel and I have space on the wall. I can see at a glance where my tools are and I find that my access is easier.
This saw and floor is open for easy access, but with a few tweaks you can put the doors on it to keep humidity (or coworkers). It’s also easy to add a back.
First, admit the problem
I designed this up to my servant, Tod Twist (we no longer have apprentices). Tod needed to store tools and I needed fodder for an article.
Since you are reading a carpentry magazine, it is probably safe to assume that you have a problem with the saw or the plane (or both).
This case contains 21 saws, Stanley bench planes from no. 1 to n. 8 and a half series of cavities and strokes. It has four drawers for storing parts and sharpening equipment, saw sets, files and the like. I hang the saw vise on a nail on the side.
You can only build the saw or the plane up or combine them as we did. Feel free to make it wider or narrower according to your needs.
You can also omit the drawers. Make sure you leave “room to grow” like my mother did when she bought me boy’s clothes and shoes.
Made to fit
We decided on pine lumber for our project. At first Tod thought it was “curly pine”, but then he realized that it was only the marks of a planer knife. We used 1 × 10 material, which made case 95/16“Deep after assembly.
I started by placing my longest saw on a board and marking the position of the dowel on which the bags would rest, just as I thought the slotted separator that holds the saws should go.
From the half-square panel saw to the miter saw, I placed several saws on the drawing to ensure that positioning worked for most saws. I did the same for the position of a higher block to hold shorter saws.
I used my longer plane to set the length of the plane and calculate the position of the upper conical bollard and the lower bollard on which the planes rest.
I drew everything on the same board as the parts for the plane until they are easy to distinguish from the parts for the saw.
The outer case is joined with passing dovetails and trimmed for the shelves and the divider.
I saw up to the cut list
No. Material Dimensions (inches) Material
t w l
❏ 2 sides 3/4 x 9 5/16 x 42 Pine
❏ 1 divider 3/4 x 9 5/16 x 41 Pine
❏ 1 At the top 3/4 x 9 5/16 x 50 Pine
❏ 1 below 3/4 x 9 5/16 x 50 Pine
❏ 2 hanging bollards 3/4 x 3 1/2 x 50 Pine
❏ 1 Dowel 1 1/4 dia. X 24 7/8 Closet rod
❏ 1 Dowel 1 1/4 give x 8 Closet rod
❏ 1 Seen the separator * 1 1/2 x 2 1/2 x 23 7/8 Pine tree
❏ 1 Rod holder 3/4 x 9 5/16 x 19 5/8 Pine tree
❏ 2 shelves 3/4 x 9 5/16 x 24 1/4 Pine tree
❏ 1 floor to the panel 3/4 x 23 7/8 x 26 9/16 Pine tree
❏ 2 Floor to the bollards ** 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 23 7/8 Pine tree
❏ 2 Floor up to the slats 3/4 x 2 3/4 x 23 7/8 Pine tree
❏ 8 or 9 dividers per floor 1/2 X 1/2 x 24 Pines
❏ 4 drawer fronts 3/4 x 3 1/4 x 11 5/8 Pine tree
❏ 8 sides of the drawer 1/2 x 3 x 8 5/16 Pine tree
❏ 4 Back of the drawer 1/2 x 3 x 11 5/8 Pine tree
❏ 4 drawer bottoms 1/4 x 8 5/16 x 11 5/8 Pine tree
* 1 “notches, 1/8“Wide, spaced 1” apart; ** A bollard has a 1/2“X 1/2“Rabbet.
Once you are sure of your size, cut your external pieces to size.
Using a saw, a chisel and a router, Minion Tod and I cut 1/4“-Deep dados on the sides, top and bottom. So let’s cut 1/8“-Give dados on both sides of the central divider to hold the pieces of the shelf.
Cut the support piece of the vertical rod that holds the short centering rod and cut it for a hanging bollard. Make the same notches on the two ends and on the central divider. When I hang a case like this, I just screwed the bollards and into the wall, but you could add a French bollard if you’re looking for that sort of thing.
Now cut the dovetails, but be sure to remember the 3/4“X 31/2”Notch for hanging bollard when arranging dovetails on top. The dovetail pins should be on the top and bottom panels for ease of assembly.
Now drill the holes for the dowels that will hold the handles of the saw. Arrange and practice 1 1/4“-Diameter blind holes 1/2“Deep in the divider, casing side and rod support for the long dowel. Then, make a through hole in the rod support for the long dowel.
Cut the long dowel to the length (it should be 1 “longer than the opening.) Cut the two bollards hanging from the length (they should be the width of the case).
Sand the inside of the case to clean it up a bit and you’re ready for assembly. And go wash your hands: you don’t want to dirty the sanded parts.
Put it together
Start the assembly by inserting one of the shelves in the nut in the central divider and drive a 6d nail through the opposite side of the nut. Insert the other shelf and fix it with a 6d finishing nail guided by the lower face of the first shelf. Tilt your nails and secure them with a series of nails.
Center and fix the lower bollard to the shelves with 8d nails pushed from the bottom of the shelf into the bollard. Then drive a 2 “screw into the divider from the back of the cleat.
Center and nail the upper bollard on the rear edge of the upper part with 8d Nails. Make sure to nail through the top face of the top piece, otherwise the dovetail pins and nut will be in the wrong orientation.
Insert the central divider into the nut at the top and screw the upper part to the divider with 1 5/8“Screws. Using 2” screws, secure the cleat to the divider. Insert the central divider into the nut on the lower board and secure it with 1 5/8“Screws.
Slide the long rod through the rod holder and insert the dowel into the lower blind hole in the center divider.
Apply glue to your dovetails and adjust the ends at the top and bottom, making sure that the rod enters its blind hole and the shelf into its nut. Screw the side onto the shelf with 15/8“Screws. Drive 2” screws through the hanging bollards on the sides. Straighten the case and let the glue dry.
Seen the separator
While the glue is drying, make the saw separator from a 2 × 4 thick grain. It should be the same length as the width of the opening it fits into.
Because the handles of the saw are generally 7/8“Often, make notches 1” in the center. The notches are 1/8“Wide and 1” deep. I used a motorized miter saw for this because the blade cuts a 1/8“All round and has a depth stop.
Slide the rod support onto the divider and mark it at the top to locate the position of the saw separator; slide it to the side and do the same.
Place the separator in the desired location, leaving the number of slots you deem necessary on both sides of the rod holder. Connect the separator with a 2 “screw through the divider and the side of the enclosure.
Measure and cut the short rod to 1 “more than the opening (because the blind holes are 1/2“deep). We used 8”, giving us an opening of 7 “for Tod’s rear saws.
The rod holder will be centered on a saw groove. To fix it, screw through the shelf into the rod support and through the hanging cleat with a 2 “screw and down through the separator with a 3” screw. If you decide to change the position of the rod holder later, you can remove the screws and move it wherever you want. You will have to create another short rod or cut the short rod you have, depending on how you move the rod holder.
Take a step back and admire your work! Enjoy a cool drink and look around your store, put some things away and tidy up a bit; savor your life.
That’s enough, go back to work!
For the drawer fronts, choose a nice one 3/4“-Square the length of the case and the height of the opening of the drawer.
Cut four drawer fronts of equal size from this tab, allowing approx 1/16“Between the fronts of each opening. (After gliding the sides there will be a little more play.)
Keep your drawers tidy so that the grain matches the fronts when the drawers are installed.
The drawers are dovetailed on the corners with the bottom nailed.
The sides and back of the drawers are 1/2“Material pushed and they are 1/4“Tighter than the opening and the fronts of the drawers. The bottoms are 1/4“Often of the same length as the drawer front and 1/4“Narrower than the total depth of the drawer.
The rear drawers have the same length as the front. Each side of the drawer is 1/4“Below the depth of the drawer.
We cut the tails on the sides and cut the semi-blind dovetails on the fronts and the dovetails on the back.
Cut to 1/2“Of 1/4“-Gutter in the lower rear edge of the front of the drawer to receive the 1/4“-Small bottom. Glue and nail the bottoms on each drawer using 7/8“Nails and setting the heads below the surface.
The grain at the bottom flows in the same direction as the grain at the front of the drawer. Make sure to glue the front edge of the drawer to the bottom so that it doesn’t break.
After the glue dries, flatten the sides to clean them and fit them into the case. While you’re at it, plan to clean up the dovetails on the case.
The right order
Make sure to number the drawers so that they return in the correct order. I like to use Roman numerals on the top edge of the front of the drawer.
A single chisel shot is an I; a double strike II; and so on. Look at a watch face if you get stuck. (By the way, there are II types of people in the world: those who can read Roman numerals and those who cannot.)
The latches and drawer guides are actually four nails. To make the drawer stop and guides, first drill the pilot holes and release an 8d headed nail cut to about 11/4“Along the shelf next to the divider on the inside edge of the drawer in the front corner. Then drill similar holes through the shelf next to the sides of the carcass.
Put your nails around 3/4“From the front edge and approx 9/16“From the vertical, where they will act as stops and rude guides for the drawers. To remove a drawer, just pull out the nail.
Tod is a leather worker, so he made leather pulls for his drawers and printed them with the brand of his creator.
Plane up to
Build the plan until it is the width of your opening and the length of the longest plan it will hold, plus 2 9/16“.
Refer to the drawing to see how much angle to put on the upper rear edge to create more space for the crease.
Our plane up to just under 24 “after assembly, so we used three pine boards, 3/4“Thick x 8” wide. The axes could be grooved or joined male and female, but we simply joined ours without glue.
Mount the upper notched cleat (1 1/2“X 3/4” with a 1/2“X 1/2“Rabbet) in the corner of the front face with a little glue and small nails. Orientalize with the dowel in the lower part of the back of the bollard, giving the toes a comfortable retention lip. Place the longer plane in position and fix the lower front bollard in the same way, leaving you behind 1/16“To facilitate the movement inside and outside the plane.
Flip the panel over and connect 2 3/4“X 3/4“Back batten to panel with 1 1/4“Screws. The top batten should be low enough not to protrude beyond the back and contact the wall when installed. The bottom batten is nailed flush with the bottom edge.
Mount the aircraft in place with the top against the upper hanging bollard and the bottom just behind the front face of the cabinet. Mark around the ends with a pencil so you can locate the screw holes, then remove the panel.
Drill through the divider and the end inside the lines so that the screws enter the axes of the case. Three 2 “screws on each side should be in abundance, with one 2” screw on each end and one in the center. It may be necessary to move the screw positions to avoid problems with the saw pieces on the other side of the divider.
Create a batch of square sticks to use as dividers for your planes – the number depends on the level of your plane purchase problem. The sticks must be under the sash in the upper bollard, so they will be just below 1/2“square.
Using small nails, attach a stick to each outside corner of the case.
Place your longest plane, then place a ruler between the body of the plane and the next stick, then attach the stick.
Repeat the procedure for your next plane, using the plane and ruler to set the width. So, cut a 1 1/2“X 3/4“Lock the width of the spacing (one plane plus the thickness of the ruler) and nail that block in place under the plane, leaving only a little space to facilitate the removal and replacement of the plane.
If you have wooden tops, create a higher conical block for the top and screw it to the crate.
All of this is easier to do if you put the chest on its back.
Our opening has just been the right width to insert in each floor from n. 1 to n. 8, so it looked nice for the photo.
Give everything a light sanding and a coat of your favorite finish. We used clear shellac.
While the finish is drying, understand how high the bottom of the closet should be from the floor
Cut two pieces of 2 × 4 to that length, then locate the pins. Take a helper and place your cabinet on 2 x 4s, make sure that your helper holds the cabinet against the wall so that it cannot fall forward or move from side to side. Insert the 3 “to 4” screws through the hanging cleat and into the pins.
After completing the checkout, we received the same question from several people. What happens in the space under the short saws? This is your personal space, a place for your Chris Schwarz memorial bobblehead of Woodworking in America 2004, first aid supplies, your favorite emergency beer or just fill it with marking gauges.
For me, it’s a sanctuary for my St. Roy action figure complete with sharp tools and a bleeding wound.
Plan: Download a free SketchUp model of this project.
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