Shaker Sewing Counter Online Extras

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Counter for sewing shaker: Tips for gluing

Gluing for the case pieces is ALWAYS a little nerve-wracking and while this particular Shaker-style sewing cabinet is no less daunting given its frame and panel construction, following these tips can make it all a breeze:

TIP # 1:
Pre-finishing before bonding = avoid a severe headache

First, you’ll want to save yourself the headache of cleaning glue out of tight, hard-to-reach corners. The best way to do this is to pre-finish the pieces before gluing them. I rubberized all the tracks, aprons, legs, panels and styles. After everything was glued I gave my final touch of wax on the piece, but having shellac at the bottom acts as a barrier and prevents the compression from binding to the fibers so you don’t have any hard-to-clean beads or stains in the wood. . If you prefer to finish after gluing, the same goal can be achieved with the use of adhesive tape. For example, put a few pieces of duct tape around the mortises without covering them, then insert the apron in place and trace its outline on the tape. Remove the portion of tape that was covered by the apron and you’ll be left with an easy-to-remove protection against compression.

Pre-finish components, such as this side assembly, not only make it easier to achieve a good finish, but also make it easier to remove the compression. Glue does not stick to finished surfaces.

TIP # 2:
Break the gluing into several parts

Subsequently, bondings are much more manageable when broken into parts. For example, here’s the breakdown I took when I completed my sewing counter:

DAY 1:

  • Glue the sides: First, I put the style in place between the apron with some glue. Then dry mount the panels in place. You Not they want to glue them: they must be able to move seasonally. Also, this is a good reason to pre-finish them so that when they twitch in the winter you won’t notice any unfinished lines along the tongue! Then I glued the aprons into my legs and let them dry overnight, giving me two solid sides to work on.
  • Glue the drawer strap: While the sides are settling, I have individually glued the drawer belt so that I have all the parts ready for the second day of assembly.
  • Prepare the back panel: Start by placing a style in the rear aprons with some glue. Insert the center back panel and then place the second post between the two aprons with some glue. Remember not to add glue on the panels as for the sides. Tomorrow you will add the other two aprons when you put the suitcase together.

DAY 2: Now is the time to move on to Tip # 3 where you should enlist a friend to help you complete the bonding and assembly of the case.

TIP # 3:
Ask a friend for help

Finally, in pieces of this size, it is very difficult to assemble the joinery yourself. Inevitably, the front rails will fit snugly into their mortises, so when you go to the back to fit the belt into its notches, one rail will come off, back and forth you will do it until the glue starts to set and then you’re in big trouble … I recommend asking a friend or partner for help, bribe them if you have to! At the guild, there are tons of people around to help with glue, another wonderful perk of working in a shared shop.

DAY 2:

  • Getting ready: Place one of your finished sides on the table with the mortises facing up, preferably on some cables that allow you to mount clamps (but this is not necessary). Then glue the drawer divider in place between the straps.

  • Glue and place the mortises of the front leg rail. Start by putting glue into the mortises of the front leg rail. FRIENDLY REMINDER: Do not add glue to the rear mortises. Just like the panels, you don’t want to add glue to allow for seasonal movement. Next, place the small rails with their strap followed by the bottom rail and its strap. Finally, place the strap with the drawer divider. NOTE: As you do this, you will need to insert the small drawer guides into place on the front drawer divider. This makes adding the reverse side much easier as the webbing is upright. Ask a friend to help you insert the strap into its notches as you glue and hammer the rails into the mortises at the front.

  • Insert the back side. Start by placing a back panel in place followed by the prepared back side. Finally, add the last rear panel.
  • Insert the last ribbon of the design, add the glue and place the second side. First, install the last drawer strap – it will be the middle drawer strap or the two small drawer straps depending on which side you placed on the workbench. Add glue into the mortises of the front leg of the second side, then ask a friend to help you place it in place. Throw a few clamps on the rail and rear aprons, ask your friend to help you lift it upright, then check the square and adjust the clamps if necessary.
  • Hammer the top rail (with the top attached) into the dovetail. Now that the cabinet is upright again, use a rubber mallet to hammer the rail into the cabinet base. If you haven’t screwed the screws through the top rail and into the top, be sure to do this before placing it; otherwise, attaching the top to the suitcase won’t be easy!
  • Attach the top to the case. The last assembly step is to attach the top to the case. You have already screwed one side of your 8 fasteners onto the top of the sides and back of the case. Now screw the other half of the 8-shaped fasteners into the top. The easiest way to do this is to flip the cabinet over, then reach for the 8-shaped fasteners and with a special ratchet screwdriver for tight spaces, insert the screws into place.
  • On the drawers. To wrap it all up, join the drawer and shelf runners with leather glue, attach the knobs to the shelf and drawers and slide them into place.
  • Finally (and perhaps most importantly), thank your friend for their help!

BONUS TIP:

ALWAYS practice gluing all the way down at least once before starting!


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